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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="https://www.vetsurgeon.org/utility/feedstylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>Wheezy Rat Snake pre-shedding</title><link>https://www.vetsurgeon.org/f/clinical-questions/27093/wheezy-rat-snake-pre-shedding</link><description> I&amp;#39;ve just seen a rat snake that shed yesterday/overnight. Prior to his eyes going opaque the owner reports he was very wheezy, open mouth breathing on occasions and bubbling from his nostrils. He was a bit like that when she got him 3 weeks ago but it</description><dc:language>en-US</dc:language><generator>Telligent Community 10</generator><item><title>RE: Wheezy Rat Snake pre-shedding</title><link>https://www.vetsurgeon.org/thread/198495?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Mon, 11 Jun 2018 09:04:46 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">146601cc-3922-4be7-9974-7e1d4e45a66b:ad1c9fb1-8696-4653-8429-7d51879dcc70</guid><dc:creator>Anthony Dennison</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;Thanks Gillian! Just the answer I needed!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Gillian Mostyn&amp;quot;]What you should always aim for is to get a range of temperatures from the client...cooler end, hotter end, daytime, nighttime etc.&amp;nbsp;[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The client did say she had a warm end and a cool end, will get her to check the temperatures.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Gillian Mostyn&amp;quot;]hree things ...firstly, check that the Viv isn&amp;#39;t getting direct sun and therefore getting too warm. Secondly, UV doesn&amp;#39;t penetrate glass. (I often have reptile owners say their reptile &amp;#39;basks&amp;#39; on the windowsill...fine for warmth, pointless for UV.) Thirdly, while rat snakes do not have an absolute requirement for UV, most people agree that full spectrum lighting is a good idea for all reptiles. (And birds, for that matter.)[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Lovely, will pass that on. Makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Gillian Mostyn&amp;quot;]Paper products, when wet or damp, get mouldy and release lots of spores. Fine if kept fastidiously clean and dry, but not ideal for pythons.&amp;nbsp; I&amp;#39;d go back to carpet, with lots of hides.[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I&amp;#39;ll see how often she is changing it and recommend back to carpet.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Gillian Mostyn&amp;quot;]The absolute humidity isn&amp;#39;t the issue, so much as the lack of ventilation. Compare the humidity &amp;#39;in the wild&amp;#39;, with fresh air, etc, with the stagnant wet air you get in a vivarium!! Not a good place for lungs. Often, just improving the ventilation (more vents, ensuring the Viv isn&amp;#39;t too enclosed by solid walls etc) will get it where it needs to be.[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I suspect this may be a big part. The owner has had other reptiles before but this is her first snake. As with most reptile owners, she means well and has some knowledge but possibly not quite enough.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>RE: Wheezy Rat Snake pre-shedding</title><link>https://www.vetsurgeon.org/thread/198432?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Fri, 08 Jun 2018 17:49:39 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">146601cc-3922-4be7-9974-7e1d4e45a66b:3fdc37b9-3190-44f7-bad3-7f1b4447bc20</guid><dc:creator>Gillian Mostyn</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Anthony Dennison&amp;quot;](owner said it was about the same size as my consulting table)[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;They always say that!&lt;img src="/emoticons/v2/Very_happy_smiley.png" alt="Very happy" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Anthony Dennison&amp;quot;]with a humidity of about 55%[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The absolute humidity isn&amp;#39;t the issue, so much as the lack of ventilation. Compare the humidity &amp;#39;in the wild&amp;#39;, with fresh air, etc, with the stagnant wet air you get in a vivarium!! Not a good place for lungs. Often, just improving the ventilation (more vents, ensuring the Viv isn&amp;#39;t too enclosed by solid walls etc) will get it where it needs to be.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Anthony Dennison&amp;quot;]and temp at the high end of around 30degC.[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;What you should always aim for is to get a range of temperatures from the client...cooler end, hotter end, daytime, nighttime etc.&amp;nbsp; A single temperature doesn&amp;#39;t really give you enough information. Plus, how is it being measured? Make sure it is a digital thermometer with a probe, not just a sticker on the wall that changes colour!!! Clients can get fixated on absolute temps, whereas reptiles can do really well as long as you give them sufficient temperature gradient to regulate their own body temperature.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Anthony Dennison&amp;quot;]He does have a heat mat and a water bowl which is at the hot end[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;This will certainly increase the humidity!! I&amp;#39;d move the bowl.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Anthony Dennison&amp;quot;]no UVA/UVB lamps but by a window[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Three things ...firstly, check that the Viv isn&amp;#39;t getting direct sun and therefore getting too warm. Secondly, UV doesn&amp;#39;t penetrate glass. (I often have reptile owners say their reptile &amp;#39;basks&amp;#39; on the windowsill...fine for warmth, pointless for UV.) Thirdly, while rat snakes do not have an absolute requirement for UV, most people agree that full spectrum lighting is a good idea for all reptiles. (And birds, for that matter.)&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Anthony Dennison&amp;quot;] He was on reptile carpet but now on torn up kitchen roll.[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Paper products, when wet or damp, get mouldy and release lots of spores. Fine if kept fastidiously clean and dry, but not ideal for pythons.&amp;nbsp; I&amp;#39;d go back to carpet, with lots of hides. Something the owner is prepared to clean frequently. Loose substrates (not woodchip etc,) are ok but does require regular changing and a lot of owners with big vivs just don&amp;#39;t want to do this.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Anthony Dennison&amp;quot;]When I opened his mouth there was some bubbly clear fluid in the bottom - if it was a cat or dog I would think it was pooling saliva. [/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Snake mouths should be dry...they only produce saliva when eating. Probably does have a respiratory infection.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Anthony Dennison&amp;quot;]I don&amp;#39;t see many reptiles so said I would seek advice as to what would be the next best step - would changes to husbandry improve this or should there be some further investigations?[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;That depends on how proactive the client wants to be...and how much they want to spend.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The stress of moving, and husbandry problems, no doubt exacerbated the illness so sorting those should help a lot. You can swab the secretions /tracheal opening and that may help with antibiotic choice (although may not represent deeper infection). However, if the snake is still eating and finances are limited, these usually clear with a course (4 weeks) of oral enrofloxacin...I use 5mg/kg sid.&amp;nbsp; As ensure snake is bathing regularly...either in its Viv if the bowl is big enough or, if not, in a large plastic crate.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Always worth remembering that RI is sometimes a symptom of another problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>