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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="https://www.vetsurgeon.org/utility/feedstylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>Tortoise eye</title><link>https://www.vetsurgeon.org/f/clinical-questions/14487/tortoise-eye</link><description> One of our nursing assistant staff brought in one of her tortoises which is a spur thighed tortoise estimated to be 50 - 60 years old. It did not hibernate properly this year according to her and she had to keep it under a heat lamp for a lot of the</description><dc:language>en-US</dc:language><generator>Telligent Community 10</generator><item><title>Re: Tortoise eye</title><link>https://www.vetsurgeon.org/thread/84060?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Fri, 01 Mar 2013 11:30:08 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">146601cc-3922-4be7-9974-7e1d4e45a66b:73480061-93e0-4531-b444-0c156cf2c37c</guid><dc:creator>Gillian Mostyn</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Charlotte Marshall&amp;quot;] I don&amp;#39;t think it has a proper vivarium which is part of the problem, I suspect it is short of UV light as well. [/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;With all due respect, this is the main aspect you really need to tackle.&amp;nbsp; You mention the owner is a nursing assistant and this isn&amp;#39;t the only tortoise they own - is there a chance you would be able to change their whole outlook on how they are keeping them?&amp;nbsp; Even if they usually hibernate, this country does not have the climate that would allow you NOT to have a vivarium set up of some kind for when it just isn&amp;#39;t warm and dry enough!&amp;nbsp; The Tortoise Trust and the British Chelonia Group have excellent care sheets on their website.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I am afraid you are fighting a losing battle.&amp;nbsp; No matter how good the veterinary treatment they receive, a cold/vit D deficient tortoise will always get ill - eventually!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Tortoise eye</title><link>https://www.vetsurgeon.org/thread/84028?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Thu, 28 Feb 2013 21:27:27 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">146601cc-3922-4be7-9974-7e1d4e45a66b:d91af7d3-a34d-4ca1-a4f9-405e36c6ec75</guid><dc:creator>Charlotte Marshall</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;It is just the one eye and no actually it was not swollen out at all. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I am one of those people who is not up to date with the latest technology and I don&amp;#39;t have anything that can do apps. (though I am thinking of getting something as it is getting frustrating with everything being available as apps!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Tortoise eye</title><link>https://www.vetsurgeon.org/thread/84027?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Thu, 28 Feb 2013 21:16:03 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">146601cc-3922-4be7-9974-7e1d4e45a66b:fdda4544-4436-4ba5-8f45-1223a165ba87</guid><dc:creator>Mark Rowland</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;You don&amp;#39;t need to worry too much about the eyes as long as you are on systemic abs. It&amp;#39;s worth trying the bloods again as getting an idea re organ function will help you with NSAID dosing. 30C is where you need to be. Regular bathing and supportive care e.g feeding are also very undervalued. Fluid support really helps as well. Sorry to plug my app again but there are videos of fluid therapy as well as the bloods. I&amp;#39;ve had torts keep eyes shut for several weeks before opening them. Are they swelling at all. can you post a pic?
Mark&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Tortoise eye</title><link>https://www.vetsurgeon.org/thread/84024?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Thu, 28 Feb 2013 21:01:47 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">146601cc-3922-4be7-9974-7e1d4e45a66b:f7e4a5f9-717e-4d30-901d-a9ff7092d7fd</guid><dc:creator>Charlotte Marshall</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;I said 20 degrees because that was what was recommended on one of the other tortoise threads in here! I don&amp;#39;t think it has a proper vivarium which is part of the problem, I suspect it is short of UV light as well. But what was concerning me specifically on top of the rest of it was that I cannot get the eyelids apart and was worried what is behind them. I shall have to try and get in touch with her again. She is only part time and so not in every day.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Tortoise eye</title><link>https://www.vetsurgeon.org/thread/84011?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Thu, 28 Feb 2013 19:21:37 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">146601cc-3922-4be7-9974-7e1d4e45a66b:aa7565bc-2288-4c99-a2c2-4e3792ee13ef</guid><dc:creator>Gillian Mostyn</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Charlotte Marshall&amp;quot;]I have told her to keep it at 20 degrees[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Sounds a bit chilly.&amp;nbsp; The basking spot should be more like 30 degrees, with an average viv temp around 25 degrees.&amp;nbsp; 20 degrees should be a minimum (and night time) temp really.&amp;nbsp; When they are ill, the warmer the better (within reason)!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Charlotte Marshall&amp;quot;]but what about the eye? Should I not be doing something about that?[/quote]&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The difficult thing is that illness and infections are often secondary to more serious problems, from ill thrift due to poor husbandry to renal failure.&amp;nbsp; No amount of treatment to the eye will help if this is the case.&amp;nbsp; In an elderly tortoise you ideally want to rule out major problems.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Tortoise eye</title><link>https://www.vetsurgeon.org/thread/83965?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Wed, 27 Feb 2013 22:46:37 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">146601cc-3922-4be7-9974-7e1d4e45a66b:88acb562-45cd-4975-bbec-1e80765ba232</guid><dc:creator>Charlotte Marshall</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;I have told her to keep it at 20 degrees and bathe it daily rather than twice a week but what about the eye? Should I not be doing something about that? I will look into the fortum as that seems a better option volume wise. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;I can try for blds maybe I will have better success given how big it is. Previous attempts in 2 cases at jugular veins for pts have proved useless so I can hope for better here I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Tortoise eye</title><link>https://www.vetsurgeon.org/thread/83889?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Mon, 25 Feb 2013 21:04:23 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">146601cc-3922-4be7-9974-7e1d4e45a66b:9d01d9a8-4f18-4308-91d3-b7d8b82ad3f0</guid><dc:creator>Mark Rowland</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;[quote user=&amp;quot;Gillian Mostyn&amp;quot;]
&lt;p&gt;(all credit for video goes to Mark!!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;[/quote]


He he thanks Gillian..
I echo Gillian&amp;#39;s comments. If you want to start on antibiotics, fortum would be a good choice at 20 mgs/kg Im. If you get the 1g vial in, add 3 mls saline to make a 260mg/ml solution and you will need about o.4mls of that every 3 days. You will need to store it frozen (draw up doses in insulin syringes and freeze them). But as Gillian pointed out a full husbandry review and some bloods would be a good start.
Goodluck Mark&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Tortoise eye</title><link>https://www.vetsurgeon.org/thread/83885?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Mon, 25 Feb 2013 19:17:47 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">146601cc-3922-4be7-9974-7e1d4e45a66b:410c518d-807d-4a2e-a19d-3e796ef4ce9e</guid><dc:creator>Gillian Mostyn</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;This is difficult to advise on as you would need to take a complete husbandry history before going any further - how it has been housed for last few years, exact temps, diet, lighting etc etc.&amp;nbsp; This will give a good idea of any underlying problems that it may have.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Then, ideally, a blood sample would be a good first step.&amp;nbsp; It is usually pretty easy to get blood from a 5kg tortoise- ideally jugular &lt;a  target='_blank'  target="_blank" title="jugular sample" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgMnVKr13QA"&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgMnVKr13QAbut &lt;/a&gt;otherwise just go above the tail, heading up as though you are going up underneath the shell.&amp;nbsp; You may get some lymph contamination there but better than no blood! Then post the blood results and we can go from there....&amp;nbsp; :-)&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;(all credit for video goes to Mark!!)&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Oh, you mention it is 5kg - any chance you can measure its carapace length and post it so we can get an idea of whether this is reasonable..??&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>